Wide-angle X-ray scattering studies on contemporary and ancient bast fibres used in textiles – ultrastructural studies on stinging nettle

Abstract Stinging nettle ( Urtica dioica ) is a potential source material for industrial applications. However, systematic research on the ultrastructural properties of fibres lacking. Determining ultrastructure and other bast also provides new insights into studies archaeological their usage. In this study, nanostructure modern ancient samples was studied using wide-angle X-ray scattering (WAXS) compared to fibres. The culturo-historical fibre consisted nettle, flax, hemp from White Karelian textiles collected 1894 as well 800–900-year-old textile fragments Ravattula Ristimäki burial site, Finland. Using WAXS, average cellulose crystallite widths, relative crystallinities orientational order (including microfibril angle fibres) were determined compared. results revealed suitability WAXS analysis identification. widths similar size all (3.4–4.8 nm). Subtle differences in descending (from flax finally hemp) observed. Also, subtle mean MFAs observed (10 ± 1° 12 14 hemp). For fibres, values larger corresponding references. addition, features due presence non-cellulosic, crystalline substances (e.g., calcium oxalates) detected patterns These could potentially be used tool identification purposes. Graphical abstract